Wednesday, April 29, 2015

Cap kit for Donkey Kong audio amp

The parts I ordered for the DK were waiting for me when I got home on Tuesday.  So I wasted no time getting started since I had both the little audio amp board and the Sanyo 20EZ to repair.

The little Nintendo audio amplifier board is mounted beside the monitor chassis.  It's easy enough to rebuild with one of the many kits available, or you could just source the parts yourself.  I ordered my kit from Arcade Shop, just for convenience.  This is such a simple job, I think it should be a first for anyone looking to start doing their own repairs.

Take a photo of the board with the cables connected before removing it from the game.  There are two cable that can be crossed or plugged back in the wrong spot, and a photo should help you from the mix up.

My kit came with a handy diagram, so I would think just about anyone could get this job done in less than an hour.  Line up the components in the same order as the instructions, and check and double check their values. Replace them one at a time making certain the negative line on the capacitor matches with the line on the top side of the board.  On this board, the capacitor numbers are clearly labeled for each.

While replacing the caps on this board, I found three that had one leg entirely corroded away.  Here is a shot of one of the bad capacitors.  This wasn't obvious from looking at the board prior to removing.  So having found those problems, I'm pretty certain it was a good idea to go ahead and re-cap this board.
.  


My kit came with replacements for the two transistors, and they are easy to replace also.  Remove the screw, and un-solder the three legs.  I had some thermal compound handy from another project so I used a little of that between the transistor and the heat sink. 

So here it is, all clean and ready to go.  I'm already looking forward to hearing that iconic Donkey Kong intro music.  I wonder if it would be too much to add a subwoofer to the cabinet?



Sunday, April 26, 2015

First Steps on the new DK!

First stage is to see what I have here to work with.  The cabinet is delaminating a little.  I'm going to try gluing that back together before I add body filler.  I'm tempted to wash down the entire cabinet as it has that dusty smokey bar smell.

Today I stripped it all down and boxed up the parts.  I removed the monitor and hauled it up into the attic where hopefully it will be safe.  I left the power supply and harness inside but I'll likely remove those also.

The coin box shelf had been unscrewed on one side and had been pushed back, I guess to make room for the bogus front panel that someone added.  I'm guessing the original operator kept the coin door when he sold the game, and fitted it with the red plywood panel and credit button.  Fortunately that was an easy fix, the missing screws were in the bottom of the cabinet so it's back in place now.  I ripped off the thin plywood front panel and tossed it in the trash.  I've got to start looking for a coin door now and I'll need to cut out a new front panel.





Saturday, April 25, 2015

Donkey Kong Project

Our DJ at work offered to sell me a Donkey Kong over a year ago.  I really didn't have any use for yet another game in my garage, so I decided to let it go.  For whatever reason, this week I decided to give him a call to see if he still had it available.  A few hours later he texts me the address and it was only a few minutes down the road from the resort.  I drive over there and it appears the game had been setting in a storage shed for decades.  So here it sits.  I'm actually somewhat excited about working on a new project.


As Donkey Kong cabinets go around here, this is a pretty nice one.  The back door is still there, the edges of the cabinet are in reasonably good shape, and almost all of the artwork is intact.  Sadly the front panel was replaced with a thin sheet of plywood and the coin door is missing.  The orange jump button is missing and was replaced with a standard, and too large red button.  The t-molding is gone, and the joystick is seized up in a strange way.  When I attempted to power on the game, it played the jump sound and the monitor buzzed and displayed garbage.  How nice.

Here are a few shots of the game as it sits now.  I took a little time today to vacuum out the insides of the cabinet.  I ordered a cap kit for the audio board and monitor from www.arcadeshop.com on Friday before I left work and it should be here sometime soon.

Anyway, I got a good deal on the game, and I'm actually jones'n to get started.




Saturday, December 20, 2014

Finished the HUO v1.0 Multi-cade

As often happens with projects, I lose interest and the whole thing becomes a real drag.  I managed to finish one of these cabinets, and I think it came out pretty well.  I'm just adding it here for closure.

When I last posted on this, I was just finishing up the wiring and control panel.  All of that works perfectly fine.  This cabinet plays well, it takes up very little space and it's convenient to move around.  I'm almost tempted to keep it.  It's by far the most practical of all the machines I own.

For the bezel I actually had a difficult time locating a sheet of card stock large enough to cover the surface.   I finally found something at a local frame shop that worked well.  All that was left to do was add the t-molding and clean the cabinet up.


It's close to Christmas, so it would be a good idea to get some better pictures of this and get it listed on Craigslist.  It's nice to have and I enjoy many of the games, but the best thing to have in my game room/work area is extra space.






Friday, December 19, 2014

Thermal Detonator

So I've been thinking about making something using an Arduino and the 3d printer.  Over on Thingiverse, I found the inspiration, thanks to member AprilStorm and the excellent Thermal Detonator model.  If you're a Star Wars fan, and even if you're not, you probably know about Princess Leia's little shenanigan in Jabba's Palace.  So it goes without saying, a Thermal Detonator can be helpful when it comes to those overly tedious negotiations.

I printed the whole thing on one build plate with support.  I removed the support from the tiny openings on the detonator before printing..  I think I set it to a .2 mm layer, 3 shells, and 30 % infill.
I'm currently using a Flashforge Creator.  For the models I'm using a very nice software package called Simplify3d.  It took a surprisingly long time to print but looked great and the pieces fit well together without any modification.


So on to the lights.  I didn't just want this to light up and be static.  I wanted this thing to have some life, and a cool flashy effect like in the movie.  I learned that Adafruit produces a much smaller and less expensive micro controller they call the Trinket.  I ordered two of them just in case I wanted to build another, cause they're just so cheap.  I also got a nice little battery compartment and two of the button style batteries, I think they're CR2032 or something close to that.  Either way it provided just over 5v which is what I needed to power the Trinket and a few LEDs.

I did a nasty job of wiring the whole thing up but it was sturdy, and compact.  I soldered 3 yellow LEDs to pins 0, 2, and 3, then a larger red LED to pin 1.   To each LED circuit I added a small resistor in the positive side between the bulb and the board.  If you're making one of these, be sure to have some heat shrink tubing for these tiny little wires and connections to keep it all from shorting out once its time to cram it all in the enclosure.

For the Trinket I uploaded a modified version of a Christmas Tree sketch I found in a forum.  I wanted to give the author credit but I haven't been able to locate the forum again.  I believe I only changed a few things like the pin numbers and the number of lights.  It works great for this project.

Just a quick note: Below is an updated sketch reworked by James Tucker.  This has been tested and seems to work great.  Enjoy.

//Thermal detonator

#define NR_OF_LIGHTS 4

int blink_delay = 400; //millisec
int blink_count_delay = 1000; //1 second




/**
*
*/
void setup() {
    //not sure if we need to do anything here
  //randomSeed(analogRead(0));
  //for (int i = 0; i < NR_OF_LIGHTS; i++) {
  //  values[i] = (int)random(230) + 13; // start values between 'max min' and 'min max'
  //  steps[i] = (int)random(4) + 1; // steps between 1 and 4
  //}
}

/**
*
*/
void loop() {
  //decrementing the main light by 32 every time to make it slowly dim
  //during the timer (main light is pin 1
  int count = 0;

  //have 4 lights, they are not plugged in binary order, so the
  //order of stuff is a little different
  //light 0 = middle position
  //light 1 = top
  //light 2 = last position
  //light 3 = first position

  //analogwrite(pin, value 255 - on 0 - off);
  //write out a 7 - 111
  analogWrite(0, 255);
  analogWrite(1, 255);
  analogWrite(2, 255);
  analogWrite(3, 255);
  delay(blink_count_delay);

  //write out a 6 - 110
  analogWrite(3, 255);
  analogWrite(1, 223);
  analogWrite(0, 255);
  analogWrite(2, 0);
  delay(blink_count_delay);

  //write out a 5 - 101
  analogWrite(3, 255);
  analogWrite(1, 191);
  analogWrite(0, 0);
  analogWrite(2, 255);
  delay(blink_count_delay);

  //write out a 4 - 100
  analogWrite(3, 255);
  analogWrite(1, 159);
  analogWrite(0, 0);
  analogWrite(2, 0);
  delay(blink_count_delay);

  //write out a 3 - 011
  analogWrite(3, 0);
  analogWrite(1, 127);
  analogWrite(0, 255);
  analogWrite(2, 255);
  delay(blink_count_delay);

  //write out a 2 - 010
  analogWrite(3, 0);
  analogWrite(1, 95);
  analogWrite(0, 255);
  analogWrite(2, 0);
  delay(blink_count_delay);

  //write out a 1 - 001
  analogWrite(3, 0);
  analogWrite(1, 63);
  analogWrite(0, 0);
  analogWrite(2, 255);
  delay(blink_count_delay);

  //write out a 0 - 000
  analogWrite(0, 0);
  analogWrite(1, 0);
  analogWrite(2, 0);
  analogWrite(3, 0);
  delay(blink_count_delay);

  //blink all lights for 2 seconds
  analogWrite(0, 255);
  analogWrite(1, 255);
  analogWrite(2, 255);
  analogWrite(3, 255);
  delay(blink_count_delay);
  delay(blink_count_delay);

  //random for a 100 iterations, increment after every loop evaluation
  while(count++ < 100) {
    for (int i = 0; i < NR_OF_LIGHTS; i++) {
      //pick a random light value
      int value = (int)random(255);

      //pick a random on/off
      int on = (int)random(2);

      //if we have a value, display the value, else turn the light off
      if (on > 0) {
        analogWrite(i, value);
      } else {
        analogWrite(i, 0);
      }
    }
    delay(blink_delay);
  }

}




After getting the lights working I haphazardly painted the outside
with whatever I had on hand.  I used some spray paint and a product
called rub-n-buff to get a metallic look.  






I had at first wanted to make the top piece that slides be the switch, but in the end added a simple lighted push button to the back side, which I think actually added to the look.  I believe I wired the LED in the button to pin 1 same as the large red light in the front.

I gave this one away to my friend James Tucker.  I found a few explosive warning labels and printed those out for the box.  Merry Christmas James!







Monday, September 22, 2014

Adirondack Chairs

 I was asked to provide some wood working projects for a local charity's silent auction.  Now the sad thing is, I've known about this for an entire year.  So I had plenty of time to get this done, but guess what, It's this Thursday and I haven't made anything.

So I toyed around with the idea of making a rustic farm house style table.  That proved to be a little out of my budget.  Maybe if I had someone sponsor me for the cost of the materials, but otherwise out of range for me.

Being a bit panicked I knew I would need to have something simple and already planned out for me.  After searching through some old magazines and wood working books, I found some simple Adirondack chair plans.  I decided to make three at once, as I recall making these in the past as a one or two project, and back then I discovered it would be much simpler to make several at once in an assembly line fashion.  Looking at my schedule I knew I would be limited to getting this done in just a few days.


I was able to have the plans printed out at a local print shop at 400% to give me the right size.  I then used some scrap plywood to make a template that I cut with a jig saw and cleaned up with a sander.

For the wood I wanted these to be true outdoor furniture.  So I settled on red cedar.  I think I just needed a few 1x8"s and mostly 1x6"s so the cost was pretty reasonable.

Then it was just a matter of copying the parts with the router and a flush trim bit.


I spent the better part of a day just getting the parts cut out.  Once the curvy bits were finished the other straight pieces were quick to do with the table saw.

The next day I spent mostly sanding, first with 60 grit then 80 with an orbital sander.  Then the second part of the day was assembly.  I used all stainless steel fasteners.


This is where making three at once started to become a real drag.  Fortunately they were looking good, and there was absolutely no problems with the assembly.




The next day was Lizzette's turn to get involved.  To finish the chairs we used an Olympic solid outdoor stain.  I believe the color is Wedgewood.  I wanted something that would be simple, but appeal to most people.  I suggested the color, and to my amazement, Lizzette agreed.




So here they are, a bit of a rush job but I think they will show well.  They are very comfortable and I think attractive.


If you've never built a set of Adirondack chairs, and you're looking for a nice useful project, have a go at it.  There are numerous free plans online and it's hard to go wrong.  My next door neighbor is planning to build a set from pallet wood.

Tuesday, April 22, 2014

For awhile now I have been working almost exclusively on this robot.  I was considering not posting anything about it here,  it has nothing to do with thirty-year-old video games.  Then I figured why not, this is really just a place for me to keep a journal of projects, and other silly things.  Besides, this is the "Spaceport Arcade" and what good is a spaceport without a robot or two.

I believe it was back in September or November that I really began.  The best reason I have for doing something like this was to force myself to learn a few new skills.  After a little research I learned that making a full size Astromech replica was a serious undertaking.   I could expect it to take a year or two, and be relatively expensive.   In the end however, I would have something totally unique, and a list of new skills as well.

This project started with a great deal of woodworking.  I'm no stranger to woodworking, but cutting circles and hoops to an exact size proved challenging.   Cutting out the pieces and assembling the frame that would eventually make the body of the droid forced me to use my router in ways that I never would've attempted, and I learned a great deal about what I was and wasn't capable of.



This is a frame designed by Mike Senna, one of the first people to ever build a working replica R2-D2.  Its a great design, very strong once assembled and surprisingly light weight.  I believe there are approximately 22 or 23 interlocking pieces.  

Then came the legs.  Cutting these from wood with a router would be enough of a challenge for most folks.  However that isn't good enough here, these have to be perfectly symmetrical and cut to exact dimensions.   Making a template from a paper pattern took me several tries and a few weekends.

The legs are made by cutting five layers of Baltic Birch of various shapes, then laminating those layers together to form the needed thickness.  Here are a few shots of the legs being assembled.




The piece you see above that has the channel down the middle is the inner most layer.  It will house the power cables that will eventually run down to the drive motors.

The barrel shaped Senna frame that I showed earlier gets wrapped in a styrene skin with a carefully cut pattern to match the design seen in the movies.  Cutting the skins out of plastic from the pattern was again, challenging, at least for me.  It was also very tedious and not something I want to do again in the near future.  There are four pieces that make up two layers for the front and back of the droid.  These are made by gluing a full sized pattern to a sheet of 0.04 inch thick styrene.  It took me several nights of careful work with a razor knife and ruler.





One last pic here of a test fit of the skins on the Senna frame.  This was done to hold the frame together for drying, and to be certain it was the correct size.


If you stumbled upon this blog and you're interested in building a replica R2-D2 or some other similar droid from the Star Wars Franchise, head on over to www.astromech.net.